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Tying instructions  

Here you will find all the information you need to tie all of the different J:son patterns.

Please watch the Instruction Videos before choosing a specific fly pattern. They explain how to use detached body pins, wingburners and wingmaterials, and how to tie in wings/wing-buds and nymph-legs/nymph-backs. 

Choose Step-by-step instructions and use the TyinGuides  to get the correct proportions on your fly.


These are the fly tying materials (apart from my own) I use when I tie flies. 

Dyneema: Synthetic (strong) tying thread which I color to match my different patterns, but also regular tying thread in black, white and tan 

Tails and antennas: On dries, in most cases, I use micro fibbets. Sometimes, however, I use fibers from a synthetic brush, which I color to match the pattern. And on all nymphs I use my own tapered silicone tails and antennas.

Deer and reindeer hair: Natural materials for legs on caddis, pupas, emergers etc.. 

Rooster hackle: Premium quality in various sizes. Cree or variant are the colors I use most, since these are generic and suitable for almost all of my patterns. 

Partridge hackle: Olive, yellow and natural. 

CDC and Trigger point: That I use as hackels and legs on some of my micro patterns.

Ostrich: In various colors and sizes. 

Regular dubbing: In various colors. 

Monofilament: Black or transparent, which I melt to make eyes. 

Weights: I use elastic tungsten, which I cut to suitable strips. 

Superglue: For backs and wing buds on nymphs.

Regular head cement: To fix tying thread. 

Hard as Nails: Varnish for heads and backs. This varnish can be put on in multiple layers that will merge together.


This is the tying equipment (apart from my own tools) that I use when I tie flies. 

 Law Vise–the most user-friendly vise in the world!


Rite Bobbin–bobbins with ceramic thread tubes prevent the thread from snapping. Mine are specially made to fit very small (Persall’s) bobbins. I fill them with tying thread using a sewing machine. 


A real must is classic surgeon scalpels with replaceable blades–one standard size for my wing materials and a larger one with thicker blade to cut foam. A metal ruler and a small cutting mat. 


Fine scissors is another must. In my collection you’ll find two pairs of self-sharpening and spring-loaded mini-scissors from Benecchi–one pair with straight blades and the other with curved blades. I also have a pair of small regular scissors to cut foam and plastic materials. 


I use four types of tweezers. A curved, narrow and sharp tweezer; plus a straight, narrow and sharp tweezer for fine details and a bold, straight and sharp one for tough jobs, like pulling off foam or feathers. The fourth tweezer is small and self-locking one to hold hackle and other materials. 


A small dubbing hook and a small paper clip when making loops of dubbing and hackle. 

A standard dubbing needle. 

An old dental tool is always useful. 

A standard whip finisher to tie smooth knots when finishing the flies.

A small can with a mounted needle in the top to apply varnish. 

A battery-charged hot point pen to heat, burn and shape legs and tentacles. 


Waterproof marker pens Copic and Pantone: Yellow, orange, beige, olive, brown, grey (no 4, 6, 8). Also some colorless blenders to mix colors and create fadeouts. 

Black pens, Staedtler pigment liner 0.05 / 0.1 and Penol 777 fine line. I use them for making eyes, segments and patterns. 

Finally, a healthy dose of patience. 

Copyright J:sonSweden AB. Industrivägen 3, 473 31 Henån. Sweden.